I used the following photograph from my personal archives to test out each software. Here are just a few places to start in your search for the best noise reduction software in 2021: But, if you need something that’s a bit more nuanced, there’s a sea of plugins you may install to wipe out noise entirely. Depending on what your needs are, they might be enough to clean up your images sufficiently. Our Favorite Noise Reduction Software:Īlmost all of the most popular photo editing software available has some noise reduction tools in place. We’ve compiled some of the best options out there for cleaning up your shots. But some easy-to-use tools make a huge difference in image quality. Unfortunately, we haven’t concocted the perfect algorithm to eliminate noise altogether. You'd have to provide maximum quality 100% crops to make much of a determination as to the cause of the "noise" in each photo- where it's introduced, where it's enhanced, where it's removed.Related Article: Exposure Compensation GuideĪs digital photography becomes more commonplace, noise reduction software has evolved. Your Minolta may do heavier in-camera noise reduction, but it's hard to tell with resizes, etc. The noise in the owl picture looks to be primarly jpeg recompression artifacts. Looking at your example pictures, it appears that the picture of the kestrel is extremely over-sharpened. With the 400d, I sometimes see a bit more shadow noise than with the 8MP sensors. Generally, with the 350d/20d/30d, I start to notice objectionable noise in a properly exposed RAW file at 100% crop at ISO 400. The severity of the recompression of the photo will affect what one perceives as visible noise. Resizing will generally reduce the visible noise, often allowing a resize of an ISO 800 or 1600 photo to look quite good without additional noise reduction. Sharpening before noise reduction will enhance the existing noise that is present in the photo. On the other hand, you will get more blocking and blotching with a jpeg, especially noticeable in smoothly gradated areas of the picture. Jim, you are introducing many variables into this equation.Īre you shooting JPG or RAW? If you're shooting RAW, you're not taking advantage of the camera's internal post-capture noise reduction algorithms, so a RAW file will always look "noisier" than a jpeg. I have had images at 100 that have needed NR because they were high-contrast images and I've pulled up some shadow detail (that I couldn't have pulled up at exposure time because it would have resulted in blown highlights), and I've had images at 800 that have needed little or no NR. The statement that noise levels are acceptable at these ISOs is more of a judgment call, and depends on subject matter and enlargement size. So I'm not surprised that I would disagree strongly with a statement that 20D images at 1600 or 800, or even 400, never require noise reduction if the shot is correctly exposed. I was more anal than the average person about film grain, easily finding grain in 4圆" prints from films that some other people would say were virtually grain-free in 8x10" enlargements. the rough, mossy rocks in this image this image is too small to show the texture but you can imagine what it would look like) can make noise less noticeable, as it can come across as part of the texture rather than as noise.Īs for what constitutes a normal or acceptable amount of noise, that's like asking what constitutes a normal or acceptable amount of grain in a film. Deeper shadows tend to show more noise, so lower-contrast scenes often need less NR than higher-contrast scenes. Even two perfectly-exposed images of different scenes at the same ISO can need different noise reduction settings. ACR lets me tailor the noise reduction, both in finer steps, and on an image-by-image basis. The lack of control over noise reduction in DPP is one of the reasons I don't DPP.
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